“It was his photography, his view on life in post-Soviet Russia. I don’t see him as a fashion designer, but as a photographer, a recorder of things. To me, it hit a nerve because of its authenticity. From the clothes on the runway to the books, everything is one. It’s all coherent, all one idea, one eye and it links the whole story together.” – Adrian Joffe
Gosha Rubchinskiy – the photographer, designer and artist. Born in Moscow, Russia, he is one of contemporary fashion’s most agenda-setting polymaths. And his creations are telling us a story, a story of vision and talent, combine with perfect timing.
His designs are expression of Moscow’s largely undiscovered youth scene. Rubchinskiy label emerges at a time when Russian street wear labels rarely make a name for themselves beyond Soviet soil. Hence, he did it! He turned his low-key graphic t-shirt business into one of the most sought-after street fashion brands of today.
Rubchinskiy launched his self-funded eponymous fashion business in 2008. And he failed. Hence, in 2012, he met Comme des Garçons president Adrian Joffe, who wanted to stock Rubchinskiy’s products in his store.
Today, Rubchinskiy is responsible for the creative side of the business, including the design of the collections, while the business entity and Gosha Rubchinskiy trademark is wholly owned by Comme des Garçons, which also manages its production, sales and marketing.
His originality has gained him international recognition among fashion insiders and streetwear enthusiasts.
The designer has frequently cited the Iron Curtain as inspiration, drawing on a type of Soviet style that existed before it fell and Russia was opened up to foreign fashion influences.
While this may be nostalgic, it’s actually contemporary, reflecting the way Russia’s youth of today are re-appropriating the looks of that time period. “It’s a very nostalgic moment for them,” he explains – “but now they dress really like that in Moscow.”